Living in Spain - Bull Running

Bull Running in Spain.

Although everyone knows of Spain’s famous bullfights, many will not be aware of the ‘scaled down’ version – bull running. Sometimes just as dangerous to humans – although the bulls don’t get killed, this ‘sport’ is something that all the Spanish participate in – from children of 3 up.

Nearly every village or town in Spain has 3 or 4 days of bull running during certain fiestas. For those towns on the coast, it is usually ‘bous del Mar’ whereby a ring is set up on the sea front with a spectators gallery around it. Various objects such as tables and wooden stairs are placed in the middle for those participating to jump on to avoid the charging bull. Alternatively, they can dive straight into the sea – often followed by the bull. The bull is then hauled back to shore by men in small boats with a looped wire on a stick over his horns.

During his time in the ring, the bull is subjected to people throwing cans, poking him with sticks, and crowds running within the ring waving their arms, shouting and generally antagonising him. Each bull has to endure this for between 20 – 30 minutes (depending on how often he is dragged from the sea, during which time there is a delay in the ‘entertainment’).

Below the spectators gallery is an open area with bars wide enough apart to let the ‘bull runners’ in and out. Unfortunately, these bars are also wide enough for the bull to get his horns through. Every year there are serious injuries as well as fatalities, and this year was no exception. Local papers reported a young British girl on holiday who was tossed around by a bull from within the confines of these ‘safety’ bars and seriously injured. The same report mentioned that an enquiry was being made into the death of a bull by drowning. The safety of the bull is of high importance - those participating are not allowed to grab the bull by the horns, even to protect themselves from a head on attack – yet these animals are clearly terrified during their time in the ring.

In the villages it is different. Usually the main street, or ‘plaza’ (town square) is blocked off and the cages are erected to provide protection for shops, and houses as well as for the spectators and bull runners. Again, wooden structures are put up for runners to avoid the bull. During the 4 day period, the timetable is generally the same. Baby bulls for children in the afternoon, mid-sized bulls for teenagers in early evening, and full size bulls at night. Between midnight and 2am, street lights are turned off and the ‘bulls with fire on their horns’ are released. Rags are tied to the bulls horns and set alight, and the bulls are freed into the street, where they are again antagonised by runners and spectators alike. All the villagers participate, I have even seen old ladies hitting bulls with sticks. During the running of the bulls, these terrified animals run slipping and sliding along the streets, and often suffer from broken bones. They are unable to stop quickly, and often crash straight into anything in their path.

During a bull run in La Xara, where our apartment overlooked the main street where the fiestas took place, I caught on video a fully grown bull totally demolish a cage where about 50 people were standing. These cages are built pretty solidly and each pole is bolted into the ground, but a couple of head butts from a strong bull and they collapsed. These same people who had previously been terrorising the bull were now terrified themselves. Fortunately for them, the bull was trying to extricate himself from the bars, which gave them time to take shelter elsewhere.

In Jalon last year, one of the village men who was said to be a professional bull runner, was gored to death and out of respect the remainder of the fiesta was cancelled. However, this year they continue to run bulls.

When their time in the street, or ring is over, the bull is collected by the mother bull who is lead out by their owner. On spotting this mother bull, the bull will run to her side and follow quietly back to the holding pen.

These bulls are magnificent animals, apparently cared for by their owners like gods, but they are dangerous animals and no one should be surprised that those that choose to run with them may well get seriously injured or killed. The Spanish, as well as many foreigners appear to ignore this fact and are shocked when people get hurt. I have seen children knocked over by baby bulls, adults tossed around in the air , and a teenager gored through the stomach, yet I rarely attend these events. When a bull gets hold of someone, he doesn’t let go but continually tosses them or head butts them until others step in to rescue the unfortunate victim. Anyone who escapes a near miss, or even a hit, is classed as a hero just like the bullfighter, and it is seen to make the boy a man and a man a god. (I use the term ‘man’ loosely as young girls and women also run with the bulls).



A teenage boy being subjected to an attack. The bulls horns had punctured his abdomen in several places before the bull was distracted from his victim and an ambulance crew arrived.

Living in Spain in winter

Whenever you read about life on the Costas, it will mention the 320 days of sunshine, and mild year round climate. However, the true reality is that its bloody cold in winter! Yes, the sun is out during the day most days, but come 5pm the chill sets in and the temperatures drop. Spanish houses are built to stay cool. In the summer you never feel cool enough, but in winter you realise that it works and they do not retain the warmth of the days sunshine. In fact, it is often warmer out than in!

Everyone knows the benefits of living in Spain - the healthy climate, warm weather, sun - sea - sangria - etc. For those intending to relocate, you should also be aware of some of the negatives which very rarely get a mention before making that final decision. Obviously for me, and many others, the pluses far outweigh the minus's or we wouldn't still be here - but it is sometimes difficult to remember those when you are sitting in the dark and cold at night because the bad weather has caused a power cut and you have run out of gas or logs to keep warm.

The majority of older properties do not have central heating, relying on the wood burning stove to keep warm. However, coming home from work and clearing out last night's ashes, bringing in logs, building and lighting a fire, is a tiresome chore. Depending on where the fire is located in the house, it will generally not be enough to heat the whole house anyway. Even if you are lucky enough to have central heating, this will most likely be fuelled by gas bottles which are quite expensive, and you may well run out of gas before the delivery is due.

Then you have the Gota Fria's to cope with, which literally translated means the 'cold drop'. It is actually a torrental downpour that can last for days without stopping. Within 15 minutes, roads can become inpassable with cars stopping dead in their tracks. Mud and rocks slide down from the mountains all over the roads, there are power cuts which can last several hours, satellite TV disturbances, and public transport grinds to a halt. Spain is not prepared for winter weather or rain. The same 'inconveniences' occur during a normal storm, which although are generally short lived, will still cause an amazing amount of distruption. Last year we had a heavy snow shower in Jalon meaning no-one could get in or out of the valley for over 24 hours.

Living in Spain in winter can therefore be cold, wet and quite uncomfortable at times. Many permanent residents go back to the UK in summer because of the heat, but me - I would go back to the comfort of central heating and 24/7 services between November - March if I had the choice.